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Greenland 47 images Created 18 Nov 2022

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  • Even though visibility was poor and much of the ice was hidden under a fresh layer of snow, it was still pretty cool to visit the Greenland Ice Sheet. Covering 80% of the world's largest island, it is 2nd in size only to the Antarctic Ice Sheet. At a thickness of up to 1,600 meters, 8% of the world's freshwater is contained in the Greenland Ice Sheet.
    Greenland Ice Sheet
  • Crepuscular rays shine on the islands of the Labrador Sea off the coast of Nuuk.
    Islands of the Labrador Sea
  • The top of Lille Malene (Quassussuaq), had an amazing view of Nuuk Fjord. The sunlight came out in the evening and touched Sermitsiaq Mountain.
    Sun Over Nuuk Fjord
  • The Nuuk Fjord contains many dramatic pointy mountains that rise up to 5,000 feet out of the sea. They were especially beautiful at sunrise.
    Sunrise Over Qingaq
  • A small iceberg floats in a small bay. Sermitsiaq Mountain was catching the first light of the day behind it.
    Sermitsiaq Iceberg
  • Myggedalen is probably the most iconic view in Nuuk. The colorful houses are part of the Old Town, and Sermitsiaq Mountain features prominently in the background.
    Colorful Nuuk
  • Though Greenland doesn't have trees, there was still some fall foliage in the bushes and shrubs. This was next to Cirkus Lake.
    Cirkus Lake Foliage
  • The aurora dances between the lingering twilight and the city lights of Nuuk. This view is from the top of Lille Malene (or Quassussuaq).
    The Lights of Nuuk
  • The sun had not even been down an hour yet when the first green curtains overspread the blue twilight sky. Why am I not on the summit already? As I hoofed it up a mountain in Greenland, I barely needed my headlamp as the lights above illuminated my way. Route finding can be tricky at night, but I had scouted out this peak the previous day so I knew where to go. Finally I reached the top, and all body heat generated from the strenuous climb was quickly stolen by the icy wind. Below stretched out the Nuuk Fjord, 2nd longest fjord system in the world. Rising nearly 4,000 feet above the sea is Sermitsiaq, the iconic island peak which dominates the skyline of Greenland's capital city. While Mars cast its reflection across the water, ribbons of green, purple, and red shimmered overhead. Oddly the northern lights seemed to prefer every part of the sky except north. For hours the show continued, in waves of varying intensity. It was a night I'll never forget.
    Nuuk Fjord Aurora
  • The aurora dances over Nuuk Fjord as seen from Lille Malene (Quassussuaq).
    From Heaven Down
  • After shooting the aurora over Nuuk Fjord for hours, it moved more to the southern sky. So I setup my camera over this small pond which was in the process of freezing over. During the brightest bursts of aurora the ground turned green. Jupiter is seen in the center of the photo and reflected on the ice.
    Jovian Ice
  • The aurora was so bright that it made the mountains, snow, ice, and everything else turn green.
    When the Ground Turned Green
  • Kobbefjord is a small fjord just east of Nuuk. The best way to see it is by climbing the 2,533' mountain called Store Malene (or Ukkusissat). It was perfectly sunny when I reached the summit. But it didn't take long before visibility was zero because the weather changes very fast in Greenland.
    Overlooking Kobbefjord
  • Kingittorsuaq is a 3,885' mountain southeast of Nuuk. This is the view from the summit of Store Malene.
    Kingittorsuaq
  • Icebergs fill up the fjord below Qingaq Mountain, as seen from the summit of Ukkusissat Mountain.
    Icebergs of Qingaq
  • Icebergs drift past the many islands south of Nuuk.
    Among the Islands
  • While climbing Store Malene (Ukkusissat) there wasn't a cloud in the sky. But that soon changed as clouds came out of nowhere and the ceiling dropped. The lighting on Cirkus Lake and Nuuk Fjord was amazing white it lasted.
    Low Cloud Ceiling
  • Almost as soon as I started shooting a time lapse of this view, it disappeared into the fog. Kingittorsuaq is a 3,885' mountain above Kobbefjord.
    Before Losing the View
  • Nuuk, Greenland's capital and largest city is seen from the side of a mountain. The newest neighborhood, Quinngorput is at the bottom. The airport is seen on the right, which is currently being expanded to allow for more direct flights.
    Nuuk and Qinngorput
  • Shortly before sunset, crepuscular rays danced over the sea dotted with icebergs.
    Icebergs and Rays
  • Icebergs float out towards the open sea near Nuuk just before sunset.
    Dotted With Icebergs
  • After clouds moved in and hid the views from the summit of Store Malene (Ukkusissat), I started heading down. Halfway down I came across this ice pattern when the sun came back out.
    Mountainside Ice
  • I nearly gave up on seeing the aurora this night but I'm glad I didn't. The thick clouds parted for a brief time to the west as the northern lights brightened. One iceberg was stranded on the rocks while hundreds of others floated past in a blur.
    Primarily Purple
  • I nearly gave up on seeing the aurora this night but I'm glad I didn't. The thick clouds parted for a brief time to the west as the northern lights brightened. One iceberg was stranded on the rocks while hundreds of others floated past in a blur.
    Lights of a Rising Tide
  • Sermitsiaq Mountain is reflected in the iceberg-filled waters of Nuuk Fjord.
    Sermitsiaq Island
  • This was the biggest iceberg I saw while in Greenland, on the north side of Sermitsiaq Island.
    Big Blue Iceberg
  • Sermitsiaq is a prominent mountain visible from Nuuk. But the only way to see the glacier and waterfall is by taking a boat tour to the other side of the island.
    Glacier Island Falls
  • With a name like Paradise Valley, my expectations were high for this hike. The scenery did not disappoint with views of the fjord, waterfalls, and amazing fall colors. No trees needed.
    Mixed With Moss
  • With a name like Paradise Valley, my expectations were high for this hike. The scenery did not disappoint with views of the fjord, waterfalls, and amazing fall colors. No trees needed.
    Last of the Yellows
  • This was the lowest of the falls in Paradise Valley before the stream flowed into the fjord.
    Falls to the Fjord
  • Just because Greenland doesn’t have trees, doesn’t mean it lacks fall colors. Shrubs and bushes burst with shades of red, orange, and gold. Juicy berries grow among the abundant green moss covering the ground. The first week of October was a bit past the peak, but I found the best remaining colors in a place called Paradise Valley. With numerous waterfalls, snowy peaks, lakes, and views of iceberg-strewn beaches, it’s a spot that certainly lived up to its name. The dark, moody weather was perfect for trying out longer exposures on the falls to give it the milky look. The water in Greenland is some of the purest on the planet. Fed by glaciers and snowmelt, one can drink directly from most streams with no consequences.
    Red Foliage Falls
  • This was the tallest waterfall in Paradise Valley  east of Nuuk.
    Falls of Paradise Valley
  • After a wet morning, the clouds parted to reveal the snow higher up. It was perfectly calm at this pond and the water was like a mirror.
    Revealing the Snow
  • Greenland is the only place I've been able to drink straight from a stream without regretting it. The water is some of the purest on the planet.
    Purest Water On Earth
  • Icebergs float down Nuuk Fjord at sunset.
    Icebergs at Sunset
  • Icebergs can be many different colors. Blue ice is older, more compressed, and heavier compared to white ice.
    Clear Blue Ice
  • There was so much ice on this beach I couldn't even walk across it. Days earlier it was hard to find even a single iceberg in the area. According to a local guide, heavy rain from a remnant hurricane caused increased calving of the Greenland Ice Sheet weeks earlier. A shift in the wind brought the ice towards Nuuk all at once.
    Crowded Beach
  • Every tidal cycle brought something different. An endless stream of icebergs floated down the fjord, stranding themselves in this small bay when the tide turned.  Earlier that morning there were so many pieces of ice that I couldn’t even walk across this beach. But by nightfall most were carried away and only a few remained. It was my last night in Nuuk and the forecast called for 80% clouds. I just had to wait for that 20% gap. Geomagnetic activity wasn’t particularly high either, but this far north it doesn’t take much. Greenland is located under the auroral oval, where shows like this may happen any time the sky is clear and dark enough. When fringes of purple or pink line the swirls of aurora, it’s often associated with bright, rapid movement. A still image doesn't even begin to show all that's happening in the sky. Rays of light pulse inward from every direction, converging overhead at the zenith. It’s mesmerizing to watch and hard to look away from, though part of me wished I had a second camera with me to capture it all.
    Energetic Swirls
  • The aurora dances above an iceberg stranded on the beach at low tide.
    Ice and Tidepool
  • It was amazing watching the aurora reflected in both the icebergs and the calm tidepool.
    Tip of the Iceberg
  • A snowshoe hare forages outside of Kangerlussuaq.
    Snowshoe Hare
  • I thought my chances of seeing muskox in Kangerlussuaq were low, especially after seeing none on the ice sheet tour the week before. But I found a small herd of 7 grazing just east of Black Ridge.
    Muskox In the Willows
  • On my last morning in Greenland I woke up early and walked to Lake Ferguson at sunrise. There was no color in the sky at all but it was still a beautiful, calm morning.
    Lake Ferguson
  • With just a few hours left in Greenland, I had time for one more hike before my flight. So I went to Lake Ferguson at sunrise. Though devoid of color, it was a beautiful snowy morning. At the lake it was dead quiet, but I could feel someone watching me. That was when I turned around to see this lone muskox. While muskoxen have always inhabited the northern shores of the world's largest island, this population was reintroduced. The vegetation in Southwest Greenland is lush in comparison to the northern tundra, and muskoxen don't have to worry about polar bears which are rare here. That's enabled them to thrive from 27 individuals in the 1960's to more than 10,000 today. When Kangerlussuaq was still a US Air Force Base, it wasn't unusual to have to prod a muskox off the runway. Though similar in appearance to the bison, muskoxen are a bit smaller with much thicker coats that keep them warm during the long, harsh Arctic winters. They don't typically lose their horns so I'm not sure how this bull managed to break his.
    Arctic Beast
  • Muskox are much easier to spot after a fresh snowfall. A week earlier they blended in with the landscape more.
    Morning Muskox
  • After dropping off my bag at the airport I walked back to the Watson River one more time. The sun had finally come out and the light was beautiful. The view made it hard to leave Greenland.
    Sun Over Watson River
  • My 9-hour flight home was one of the most scenic I’ve ever been on. Taking off from Helsinki at sunset, we chased the sun westward. Meanwhile the full moon emerged to the east and followed the plane. In a state of perpetual twilight, the light remained the same for hours. The moon neither rose nor set and it felt like time was standing still. At the top of the world, just 250 miles from the North Pole, the scene was most striking. 7 miles below was Northeast Greenland National Park, the world’s largest national park. The ice sheet emptied out into the Arctic Ocean between pristine snowy mountains. Moonlight shimmered across fresh sea ice, fractured by undersea currents. The moon was directly in the middle of what’s called the anti-twilight arch. The pink band above is the layer of atmosphere where the sun was still shining, reddened by the backscattering of sunlight. The blue band is Earth’s shadow projected out into the atmosphere. In mid-October the sun sets for good in this part of the high Arctic, not to rise again for more than 4 months.
    When Time Stood Still